A soft, flannel-like fabric, of medium consistency with regards to drape, in an intriguing mottled shade I am unable to give a definite name to; a gray/brown with undercurrents of grape, minor flecks of tan, major flecks of black. It will shake me from a quest to somehow match the color and instead wear it with 'how-does-this-feel-together' items and be rather surprised at what feels 'right'.
The design has been niggling my mind for ages and jelled during a 3 a.m. think: an offset seam flanking the neck edge, left sleeve meeting this seam, right sleeve set into side opening, neckline sorting itself out from this initial plan.
The fabric is 54 inches wide; from experience this width suits my size 14-16 frame, my wish for clothing that tents the body and is comfortable.
First I pull a thread across one cut end and cut on the pulled thread line to get an even edge. From this cut edge I measure 54 inches which is a length I like - this allows for a shoulder seam and hemline, should I choose to raise a hem. I note that there is enough material left for the sleeves and pocket. Again a thread is pulled and the material cut on the pulled thread line to give another straight edge. I now have a square and this is noted with interest; it was not the intent; but, I do like the idea of clothing starting with a square and perhaps being, somehow, folded as in origami.
I hold the fabric and consider which end feels right as the top of the garment. I fold the end that suggests the top in half and mark the point with a safety pin. (Safety pins allow me to try on without being pricked by a straight pin or having a pin slip out.) This is now the center back. Since I know that I want the seam to occur at the left neck edge I measure four inches on either side of the safety pin and mark these two points with safety pins which gives me the two neck edge points; then, I fold in the fabric on the left side until the edge (plus 1/2 inch for seam allowance) meets the pin marking the left neckline edge. The other edge of the fabric is folded so that it meets this first edge, again with 1/2 inch for seam allowance. This now gives the sides of the garment and I cut down 12 inches on either side to make the sleeve openings.
I now pin the shoulder seams together, on the right side from the sleeve opening to the right neckline edge safety pin; on the left side from sleeve opening to left neckline edge safety pin. At this initial pinning I have wrong sides together using safety pins. I now sew up the front seam (the only lengthwise seam) with right sides together and since I have both edges exactly 54 inches and the ends are the selvedge I don't need to pin the edges together - but I do start from the top edge, just in case the sides are a bit unequal: it will be easier to trim at hem edge. As I sew the seam I leave about two inches open at the top and about four inches at the bottom; these slits will be modified.
Now I finger press open the seam, using thumbnail, to get it to lie flat for the initial try-on. I try-on. Looks fine; the seam is nicely placed. I now re-pin the shoulder seams, this time with straight pins, right sides together. Finger press the seams. Try-on. Yes. The neckline slit gets opened another inch. Try-on. Another inch. Try-on. It is now about eight inches long and several folds are tried with the flap; the folded-in shape is finally chosen; I like the angle formed from shoulder to left collarbone. The bottom slit is opened to eight inches as well and while shorter than I normally make kick-pleats, the balance with the top opening feels right.
There are many try-ons occurring but assume this; the repetition gets annoying.
Now I make a semi-circular cut into the back neck, perhaps half an inch; it will take three such slices to come up with what feels and looks right. I now sew up the edge on the neck line and front slit deciding to keep with the single fold as is done on the selvedge edge of the front seam, to continue the single fold around the neck edge to keep the nice drape. I use a shallow zig zag which does not show detrimentally on this fabric
I double fold the hem and stitch it twice: the added weight adds to the flow of the garment. The front slit on the selvedge edges gets a shallow zig zag.
At this point, during a try-on, as I have cut the the lengths for the sleeves (one having to be longer to allow for its extension to the edge of the neck) and am chalking on the front of the garment as I stare in the mirror the placement of the angled pocket, the awareness comes: the fabric has an itch to it! It is not as I had thought, a cotton flannel. It must be a wool or wool blend flannel. Well, damn. There is no use trying to convince myself that it will be fine - I know it will not. I will not be able to wear it against my skin as a dress.
Change of plan! The dress is now going to become a jumper. I finish the sleeve openings with single folds and double shallow zig zag stitching. I search my closet and drawers for a blouse or t-shirt to wear under the jumper. I carry a swatch of the fabric with me to various stores. Nothing seems to 'go'.
Finally, this morning, I put on the copper blouse that is a favorite, the matching copper socks, settle the color-defying jumper over top. It feels good. It feels great. I like how the material drapes softly under the arms like gentle waves on a beach. I like how it sits gently and easily on the body.
I have yet to decide on pockets and will cut a rectangle and pin it on and see how this suits.
The plan is to get a photo for posting (the photo isn't the hardest part: posting it is!).
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